Gold
Gold has always been the metal par excellence, especially for jewellery. Infact,
gold and jewellery are almost synonymous in people's mind. For more than 6,000
years, the use of gold has embedded into our lifestyle and culture to an extent
that no other metal can replace it. Gold has its importance due to its rarity,
appearance and the very character of the metal itself. In a pure form, gold
is a colour of bright yellow. It has a long lasting luster and because it is
chemically inactive when pure, it is almost incorruptible and does not oxidize
in air.
All these qualities give gold a mystic and symbolic association of being immortal. Due to its physical characteristics, it is appreciated by jewellers and metalworkers worldwide since ancient times. It being malleable and ductile, (The ability to be drawn into wires or sheets) intricate designs and patterns are possible with gold. Also it is believed that the basics of working with other metals developed due to the working and understanding gold.
Gold in Jewellery
- Gold wash - gold deposits with a thickness from 2 to
5 millionth of an inch.
Gold plating - deposits with a minimum thickness of 7 millionth
of an inch.
Gold inlays - solid pieces of gold or gold alloy attached
by dovetailing (usually 14-24 karat).
Gold leaf - gold leaf is very thin, 3-4 millionth of an inch,
made so by flattening under pressure. Can be hammered thin enough to transmit
light.
Gold filling - refers to a base metal such as nickel that
has gold sheet attached by soldering or some other means. Gold filled was
once commonly used in watch cases.
Heavy gold plate - a film of fine gold plated to other metals
to a thickness of at least 100 millionth of an inch.
Rolled gold - a layer of plating, of 10 carat or better,
mechanically bonded to a base metal. Gold content may be less then 1/20th
total weight
Silver
The Latin name of silver is Argentium, and that is why it's chemical symbol is 'Ag'. Silver occurs as metal and in silver ores such as Argentite (Ag2S), often accompanied by copper, lead and zinc ores. The main deposits of silver are located in Canada. Deposits of silver are also in Cobalt, Ontario and keremos and at several locations in the Yukon and the Northwest territories.
Silver is relatively soft metal and is highly malleable and ductile. Silver is not very resistant to contamination by sulphur as silver sulphide tarnishes silver. Metals that are alloyed with silver improve it's physical properties alongwith making it more economical. The alloying metals not only dilute the silver content to make it more economical, but enhance its physical properties as well.
SOME FACTS ABOUT SILVER
- Silver's chemical symbol is ag.
It can be hammered out into sheets so thin that it would take 100,000 of them to make a stack an inch high. These sheets are so thin that light shines through them, silver can be drawn into wires that are finer than a human hair. It is the best conductor of heat and electricity among the metals.
The atomic weight of silver is 107.870, and its atomic number is 47. Silver melts at a temperature of 1761 degrees F or 960 degreess C. Silver has a specific gravity of 10.5. When melted, silver can absorb as much as 20 times its own volume of oxygen
Pure silver is too soft to stand up under constant wear, it is usually mixed with copper to form an alloy before it is made into commercial articles
Until the coinage act of 1920, British coins were 92.5 per cent silver and 7.5 per cent copper. The 1920 act reduced the silver content to 50 per cent. The 1946 act eliminated all silver in British coins. They are now made of a copper nickel alloy.
Sterling silver contains as much or more silver as British coins did. The word sterling has been used to mean high quality silver since the 1200's.
Silver items marked sterling means they contain at least 92.5% silver. Some jewellery, especially some of foreign make, may be marked .925 or 925, instead of the word sterling.
Silver plate is made by coating base metals with pure silver or silver alloy by electrolysis. Silver plate, being a lot less expensive than pure silver, is more widely used for tableware.
Silver is not changed by moisture, dryness, alkalis, or vegetable oils, but sulphur will cause silver to turn black
Bali Silver
Bali is an island among all the other islands that form Indonesia. Certain communities specialize in the art of silversmithing, and pass their art to succeeding generations. The artists often use very simple tools, but with them achieve little works of art! They begin with pure silver that is mined in parts of Indonesia, mixing it with a tiny bit of copper to make it stronger, and a tiny bit of borax, which helps the metals melt when heated with a torch. Once melted, the silver is poured into a mould to create sheets or wire. From these pieces, the silver is cut into different shapes and sizes to form beads. Filigree type designs are created by cutting small holes into the metal, soldering thin wires onto the pieces, and applying granulation, resulting in a surprisingly wide variety of designs. After the beads are formed, they are cleaned with a solution made from tamarind fruit, then dipped into an antiquing solution which fills the grooves with a dark color and creates a contrast between the high and low parts of the bead. In this way, the beautiful pattern of the bead is enhanced.
Thai Hill Tribes Silver
During the last decade, Thai artisans from the Hilltribes of northern Thailand have gained a wonderful reputation for their beautiful, artistic creations in silver. Before that, these poor tribes earned much of their income from opium sales, but with government support, the growth of their new industry in silver artisanry and sales has set these people in a new direction and given them a better way of life.
The Hill Tribes consist of about 20 different tribes, including the Karen, the Hmong, and the Yao. Every member of the family becomes involved in the creation of silver beads, pendants and jewellery. After melting down the silver with torches, and pouring it into moulds, very small pieces are shaped by a long process of tapping. The process is very similar to that of the Bali artisans, but the style is uniquely Thai.
Thai silver pieces are amazing works of art, all made by hand, and little or no machinery. Because of this, no two pieces are exactly alike. Beads are hammered and etched, and others are sculpted into shapes, often emulating objects from nature such as ladybirds, butterflies, fish, ocean shells, leaves, and many different types of flowers. Not only do Thai silver creations enhance jewellery, they are frequently the focal point of a piece of jewellery.
Some manufacturers produce Bali and Thai-looking beads that are actually made of pewter or other alloys. Check to be sure of what you are getting... and enjoy your handcrafted silver beads!
How to Care for Your Bali and Thai Silver
All silver tarnishes naturally, but higher content silver tarnishes more slowly, and not as badly as sterling. To help prevent tarnishing, store your silver jewellery in air tight plastic bags in a cool dry place. Do not wear it swimming! You can clean off tarnish using a cloth, or a special anti-tarnish cloth available where jewellery is sold. Clean the silver carefully and avoid polishing the other beads on your jewellery, such as crystals with an AB finish, as the cloth can remove that finish. Using a cloth should not damage or remove the dark oxidation in the recesses of the silver. Also used to clean the silver are lime juice or toothpaste with a soft toothbrush, then wiped clean.
Platinum
The name "platinum", is taken from the spanish platina, means "little silver". Platinum symbol "Pt" , is recovered from deposits in its elemental form, mixed with other metal such as gold, copper, nickel, irdium, osmium, palladium, ruthenium and rhodium. Platinum is a silver-white dense metal, heaviest of the precious metal. It weighs almost twice as much as karat gold. Its strength ideally secures diamonds and other precious gems. The world's famous diamonds, including the Hope, Jonker I and Koh-I-Noor are set in Platinum.
Platinum has been hailed as the colour of new millenium, according to top life magazine, " its white hot futuristic appeal is the Ultimate choice of the space age". Platinum is strong and durable. Only the most skilled and talented jewellers can work in platinum. Platinum jewellery looks elegant and exclusive, thus making it a hot favourite with the rich & famous.
Platinum is seen as a symbol of true love. It's rich, white luster compliments diamonds and & other precious gems, while its neutral colour enhances a stone's brilliance and depth.